Antarctica, Austral Summer 2019 - 2020 (Part 2 - Arrival at McMurdo)

After months of anticipation, the day I had been waiting for had finally arrived. We were picked up from our hotels at 8:15 AM and were driven to the International Antarctic Center. There, we made the final preparations for our bags and had them weighed and put onto a truck that would load them onto our plane.

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I was slightly bummed out when I was informed that the C-17 Globemaster that typically takes people down to the ice was not arriving to New Zealand for a few more weeks so we would be flying on a modified Airbus A319.

Despite the fact that we had all passed rigorous background checks, we all had to have our bags X-Rayed and we had to pass through a metal detector like we would in any other regular airport.

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After getting checked through security, we waited in a large room with rows of seats before we could board the plane. Unfortunately, weather at McMurdo was not great so we were delayed an hour…and then another hour…and then another, and before long our flight scheduled to depart at 11 wasn’t scheduled to leave until 2:30 PM.

Despite the fact that our flight was delayed three and a half hours, we were not allowed to leave the terminal to get food because they would be forced to re-screen us through security. I had the bright idea to order Uber Eats and before long, everyone was ordering from Uber Eats. I got myself a 20-piece McNuggets for my last meal in the “real world.”

The specialized Airbus had several rows of seats removed towards the middle of the plane creating an area for some of us to lay down for part of the five hour flight to Phoenix airfield.

An hour from landing, the plane crew told us to make sure we put on all of our Extreme Cold Weather (ECW) gear in preparation for the landing.

The plane dipped beneath the cloud cover and we were able to see Mount Erebus, the only active volcano on the continent, off to the left of the plane.

Finally, we touched down. Since I was sitting at the back of the plane, I was among the first to exit the aircraft. A tear trickled from my cheek as I hesitated at the bottom step before finally stepping onto the ice below. The dream had become a reality. I made it to Antarctica.


It is no short hop to Antarctica, and no easy thing to see it the way it should be seen. The last un-fucked-up place on Earth
— ANTHONY BOURDAIN, PARTS UNKNOWN - SEASON 9, EPISODE 6

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Needless to say it was cold. Really cold. Like -40° with the windchill cold. Unlike anything I've ever felt before. In the distance about 200 feet away was “Ivan” the Terra Bus, a 50 foot, 25-ton behemoth of a vehicle that has shuttled passengers from the airstrip into McMurdo center since the 1980s. Ivan is pretty slow and it takes about 45 minutes to take the 7 mile trip from Phoenix Airfield to McMurdo.


 
 

Upon arriving to McMurdo, we were led into the Chalet for our new arrival debriefing. Here we got our room accommodations, login information for our computer stations, and some more general information about codes of conduct that we all had already heard about four times before.

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For the next few months, I would be living in building 155. Since it houses the galley as well as several offices that oversee the day-to-day operations of the station, building 155 is known as the “heart of McMurdo.”

Dorm rooms in 155 house four people at a time and lack a private bathroom. Instead there are communal bathrooms and showers located at the center of each floor.

Since I was one of the first groups arriving to the station for the summer season I only had one roommate upon my arrival, a computer tech named Tim. Although I wasn’t terribly excited to potentially have three roommates, it was convenient to live in the same building where I worked.

Other dorm buildings like 201, 207, 208, and 209 are known as the “uppercase” dorms and these are a little nicer “suite-style” rooms with a shared bathroom between each one. These are reserved for people that have come back for their second season or more.

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There is no fiber optic cable leading to Antarctica so all the internet at McMurdo is satellite based which means it’s sloooow. There is also no Wi-Fi which means in order to connect to the internet you have to physically connect your computer to the wall and the only place you can do this is in a computer room or one of the lounges.

Due to the flight delay, we didn’t get to our rooms until about 9:30 PM so after trying to briefly familiarize myself with the building I went to the lounge to tell Audrey, my friends, and family that I had made it safely.

I began writing this blog post around midnight before finally going to my dorm to get some sleep. I had a long day ahead of me the next day.

Luis FayadComment